You're going to need to get into the 10 mph + range, and I'm thinking you can't do that.Ted Williams Outboard Motor ManualSears Ted Williams 5hp outboard motor model 217-59310.
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If you take the boat out this weekend, take a GPS with you, and get some readings on your MPH.
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So unless you can pop that boat up with an gas motor there's really no need to use one on a lake the size of Ft. If you can't get on plane, and stay on plane, you are basically going the same speed as you can go with a good electric motor. motor for Yargo, and a gas motor in the 15-20 HP range, if you keep this boat. I think eventually you will get a decent elec. I'm just thinking out loud here, but with the extra weight in your boat, I guessing that a 9.9 isn't going to make you happy. I participate in a boatbuilder's forum, and the general consensus there is that it takes at least 9 HP to get a 14 foot boat up on plane and keep it there, lightly loaded. Don't mean rocketing down the lake, but just up and on plane and staying on plane. That's a good looking boat, and it would be shame not to get decent performance out of it. So maybe a 9.9 will do, but I'd make sure I could try it out before committing to buy it. Now there's some debate about whether there is really an real HP difference between the old OMC 9.9 and 15 HP. My SWAG is that you will need at least 15 HP to get decent performance out of it.
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#7.5 HP TED WILLIAMS OUTBOARD MOTOR WORTH ANYTHING PLUS#
Plus just looking at it, it looks as if it is built very solidly, i.e. That's a fiberglass boat, and it's significantly heavier than an alum. If it's a homemade boat, it may possibly be a displacement hull, and not a planing hull, or just heavy, and once it reaches a certain speed, that's all she's going to go.Īgain before I started taking things apart, I'd find someone with a 12 foot jon, put your motor on it, and see how it will do.Ĭlick to expand.Well, here are my thoughts, and they're worth exactly what you've paid for them. If it's an Eska, parts are virtually impossible to come by. Too many things to break, and parts for these motors are hard to come by. There's no way I'd pull the powerhead though. Other quick cheap check is to borrow a prop that's known to be good and see if it will work o.k. Did you put the motor in gear (with the plug wire off) and try to turn the prop by hand? You may have to really lean into it, but if it turns without turning the motor (flywheel), then you have a spun prop. in response to Lizella Fella, you said you pulled the prop. What you are describing is classic for a spun prop. If that's the case, leave the powerhead alone - you're lucky. When it starts "slipping" does the motor just start turning high revs, but you're not going any where. Thanks again guys, Ho-JazzĬlick to expand.Why would you want to do that. If still no go, I guess Ill tear into the powerhead and get to the top of the driveshaft. Kevin, Im starting to think the same thing as you are.after looking I would say the prop is maybe 10-12 inchs below the surface when the boat was loaded with 3 people and gear.Gonna try it one more time with a little more weight in the rear of the boat and see what happens. (it pays to have good neighbors ) Just trying to salvage this this into maybe a summers worth of small ponds. As for getting ripped off.Ive only got about twenty $in this engine now and that was in gas, oil, lead additive and a new plug. Tonight I will take a small magnet and see if I can attract any metal from it. The oil did not have any shavings in it that I could see, But I do still have the oil sitting in an old plastic tray in the garage. I have checked all the bevel gears in the lower unit, they seem to be good hardly show any signs of wear. Thanks for all the replies guys.I really do appreciate any help I can get.Ĭypress.